My Climbing Supplements Explained in 11 Minutes
In a Nutshell
The climber takes 6.4 g daily of sustained-release beta-alanine to extend forearm endurance by ~21 seconds and 10 extra moves on 1-2 minute routes, outperforming the 4 g study dose. He pairs 10–15 g collagen peptides plus 500–1000 mg vitamin C pre-workout for finger tendon collagen synthesis. Creatine is avoided due to water-weight gain and GI distress; only a time-release pellet form is tolerated without cramping.
These notes were generated by AI and may contain inaccuracies.
Beta-alanine is a dietary supplement the speaker has used for at least ten years. After returning to rock climbing, the speaker sought ways to improve endurance without gaining weight. Beta-alanine was selected over creatine because creatine causes water retention and weight gain, which would be problematic at 180 pounds where finger strength is already a limiting factor.
Studies on professional climbers include randomized, double-blind trials with 15 elite climbers taking 4 grams daily for 4 weeks versus placebo. The intervention group showed a 57% increase in time before collapse compared to 19% improvement with placebo. This translated to an additional 21 seconds of improvement. The duration studied was one to two minutes, equivalent to top rope climbing on 35-foot walls. The beta-alanine group improved by 10 movements versus 4 movements in the placebo group from training effect alone.
The speaker takes Momentous collagen peptides with vitamin C before training. The dose is 500 mg to 1000 mg of vitamin C. Research shows 50 mg is effective for promoting collagen production in fingers. High-quality collagen is recommended to avoid heavy metals and contamination issues rather than bone collagen sources.
The speaker takes 6.4 grams daily (eight tablets) rather than the 4-gram study dose. Recommended brand is Thorne beta-alanine SR (sustained release) to reduce paresthesia. Paresthesia causes tingling sensations throughout the body, similar to niacin flush or limbs that have fallen asleep. The mechanism appears related to carnosine saturation in muscles.
Psyllium husks contain heavy metals and contaminants in most popular brands. Recommended brands with verified test results are Yerba Prima and Organic India. Seaweed flakes from stores contain significant microplastics from ocean harvesting.
Creatine causes digestive issues for the speaker and leads to weight gain from water retention. The speaker previously took 10 grams daily but experienced painful muscle cramps in hands and feet, reducing to 5 grams daily which eliminated cramps. Rhonda Patrick has publicly discussed similar cramping issues at doses of 10 grams or more.
BodyTech Elite creatine uses NovaSpheres time-release pellet technology. This delayed absorption formulation is the first creatine the speaker can take without stomach upset. The pellets are visible inside the capsules and represent genuine time-release technology. Momentous products are preferred for travel due to quality testing, with small travel bags available for mixing supplements.
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