Exercise Scientist Critiques INSANE Climber Alex Honnold
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Dr. Mike, former professor of exercise and sports science, was kicked out of the university for attempting to climb every building he was employed in, though he got nowhere due to inability to climb. Spotlight on Alex Honnold, one of the greatest climbers ever. Will discuss his climbing, fitness, exercise science for improving climbing through lifting and climbing. Every time reading his name, thinks of Arnold Schwarzenegger: "Arnold, Arnold, Arnold, Arnold, it's me, Arnold Schwarzenegger. What are you doing? What are you climbing this for? Watch this. I just knock the mountain down. Then you can step on all these stupid rocks. You're going out there and you're going to Yosemite Falls. What is there? Is there a weight room? Is there opposing gym? Is there mirrors? No. Stop it. Bullshit."
After years of training, Alex Honnold tested himself with free soloing: no ropes, no harnesses, no partners. Free soloing is insane. Lifters think they're tough, but screwing up a 500 lb squat might bust knees or spine, but it's practiced, predictable, barbell always looks the same, gym weather identical, feet position known, supports prevent major injury. Can tell story of heroic injury for sympathy. MMA fighters get hit in face for living, but have judges, refs, people stop if killing you. No negotiating with rock cliff. Free soloing: solo (alone), free (not belayed into mountain). If screw up above 40-50 ft, die. Worst best case: 50-80 ft fall into soft patch by pine tree, break femur open, helicopter pickup.
Free soloing is insane because you screw up, you die.
Shot under mountain overhang disturbs deeply, a nightmare. Climber has helmet on, falls, helmet busts through ground, gets up like nothing happened.
Death is a terrifying thing. But really does kind of give you a deeper appreciation for life.
Got all appreciation for life needed, don't need death.
Honnold's next challenge: scale Taipei 101 Tower in Taiwan, one of world's tallest skyscrapers, never done before. Dr. Mike claims to own Taipei 101 as world's first trillionaire. When visualizing climb like Taipei 101, thinks about feel, mental preparation informs physical training. Doing dumbbell fly with large fraction of body weight. In bouldering, requires strength like straight arm flies: grab rock face, generate friction with pecs, biceps, forearms, fingers to not fall backwards. Upper body strength for climbing massive and multifaceted. Vertical pulling most important physical characteristic. Training for Taipei 101 simulates deep fatigue for 1600 feet vertical climbing quickly. Pull-up grabbing vertical bars shows unbelievable hand strength, pulling strength, control.
On Taipei 101, you're basically grabbing the same holds almost the whole way up the building.
Predictable climb good, know where hand goes next. Repetitive motion causes local fatigue. Real rock routes cycle muscles: vertical pulling, side pulling, pinch gripping with chest, pushing off objects. Taipei 101 repetitive, local endurance must be trained. Preparation good, but never totally know ready for new thing, fear always there. Better to practice simulation than raw dog it.
Anxiety watching footage, sweating. Waking up there would feel like nightmare. Climber holding on with just legs to rechalk. Insight: not chalk, but dry scooping Element powder (electrolytes for hydration), absorbs moisture from air (didn't really happen). Element amazing beverage enhancer for hydration during/after sweaty tasks. Link, code in description.
For Taipei 101, two-month concentrated training block. Thinking like fighter or boxer prepares for fight: always fit, practicing, but hard train before big fight like Rocky montage, 2.5 months concentrated for specific project. Elite climbers good generally, but sharpen for specific difficult climb via specificity principle. Peak specifically for event, takes weeks/months. Focus efforts on thing and supporting systems, maintenance on rest. Neural adaptations massive quickly: hadn't high bar squatted long time, wobbly at 275 lbs x10 sets despite prior 405x10 smooth, legs bigger/stronger. Continuing magnifies via nervous system. Bioenergetics adapt quickly for endurance in weeks, size/strength longer. For endurance/specific technique event, train it weeks ahead.
By finger strength metric, underperforms peers, manages with good technique, footwork, execution. Pretty good climber generally, not strongest relative to level. Climbing massively technique-based, endurance-based, strategy-based, repetition strength in upper body pulling (not much legs). Anthropometry matters: bigger, longer, stronger hands; endurance forearm musculature strong but not big (big muscles cramp/fatigue faster). Elite climbers gifted in most aspects vs regular people, but vary vs each other. Net total: technique, endurance, specific strength, strength endurance, body architecture determines ability.
Good news about balls: big balls, throw away notepad/Excel. RP Hypertrophy app has workouts in one place, guided videos, evolving program. Follow plan on phone for gains. Link in description. Bad thing: balls heavy, weigh down. Alex Honnold needs big balls to keep climbing, but could be better if lighter.
You don't have to be born with Chris Sharma's tendons. You can just be a freaking monster at training and get honestly not even a monster. You can just stick with it for a long time.
Training hard over months/years, even not psychotic, consistency makes better. Transfers to fitness, sports, dance, language, school, business, relationships. Gym people "coming back after while" not serious, asking advanced questions they'll quit in 6 weeks. Consistency beats everything. Stronger tendons/ligaments, connective tissue take months/years. Play long game, consistent grind, avoid injury, healthy lifestyle for long-term gains, slow steady progress.
Motivated to climb building, comments for which: Burj Khalifa (Dubai, world's tallest), pyramidal gets easier. Want upside down pyramids. Alex Honnold psychotic legend, 10/10 ballerness, can't relate. Going home to cry.
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